Refurbishing the Galley - Part 2 - Disassembly, prepping and refinishing
Now that the galley Nice and cozy in my Garage, it was time to get down and dirty on it.... that is to continue the demolition... or Dis-assembly in this case. The first thing that I had to do was to remove the Fiddle rails. They were held in place using Stainless Steel Screws, covered by Teak Plugs. Based upon some reading I had done in several different places, the best way to remove the plugs to get to the screws was as follows:
|A Teak Plug, waiting to be removed to get to the screw underneath
|Drill a hole
|Insert a screw
|Screwing in the screw will lift out the plug, well part of it anyway
|Using a small common screwdriver, pry out what remains of the plug
|Cleared out, and I can see the screw head.
|Back out the screw!
I continued until I had removed all of the fiddle rail. Then it was a matter of removing the remaining sink and the faucet. Then it was time to remove the counter off of the cabinet. this was a matter of about 9 - 12 screws, screwed in from underneath through some cleats that were attached to the cabinet.
|Everything removed from the Counter
|The counter Removed. Games you can't lose: "Where is the water damage on this counter?"
|Sink trap removed. Notice the orange-ish colored stuff at the flange at the bottom. I think this is Plumber's Putty. It isn't supposed to get hard like this, but after 36 years, I guess so!
|I think this sink is, ummmmm, a COUPLE of years old, judging by the illustration... LOL...
|Had to remove this stuff with a paint scraper!
|Scraped off, now to come and get the rest off with a drill mounted Wire Brush!
|Getting there.... about half way done.
|One sink hole is cut out, and I have clamped this to some plywood scrap to cut out the other hole.
|Notice the holes for the faucet supply lines are drilled out, and that I drilled holes in the corners of the sink hole. This is done so I can more easily turn the corner. Two of the sides are already cut (left and bottom)
|Other hole completed (with the jig saw used).
|A Dry Fit of the sinks and faucet.... PERFECT!
So here is the technique, Take sawdust from the same type of wood you are filling (I goofed and used sawdust, which caused the putty to be a little darker than normal. Better to use actual saw or Drill dust, where the fibers are a little bigger, as noted later)
|here is the sanding dust I collected
Squeeze some glue on the plastic:
Once it is dry, you can sand it smooth with the wood surface.
|Sanding the filler smooth with my random orbit sander.
|Here is the sanded filler... it is a little dark because of the source of the sawdust... it was sanding dust which also included varnish particles... Next time will be better....
The great thing about this filler is that it will take a stain just like the real wood, well because it is made of real wood.
|The filler can be sanded, painted, or in this case, Varnished.
I decided to try a Technique I recently saw on YouTube (ahhh, the wonders of social media!)
You see, most brushes are really too long and flexible to do a good job of pushing the Varnish around, especially in the cooler temperatures we are having now. So to counter this, I took a bit of Painter's tape and taped brush until only about an inch of the brush was exposed.
1. STIR the varnish with a paint stirrer, NEVER shake to mix... this will introduce bubbles into the varnish and they are the enemy!
2. Don't overload the brush. Dip the brush about 1/2 inch, then scrape off one side. Start your stroke with the loaded side down, about a half inch from your wet edge (or edge of the piece) and stroke away from the wet edge, then stroke back towards the wet edge. Continue all the way down the piece.
3. It can help to go at angles to the grain to fill in all the pores, but the LAST stroke should always be WITH THE GRAIN. Then tip out any bubbles (hopefully there won't be any) by letting the brush ride very lightly across the surface With the grain. This should pop any bubbles.
|Working my way down the piece
|The end of the final tipping stroke - stroking with the grain
I then Hung them up to dry using some drywall screws through the existing screw holes, and using my garage rails to hang them. It worked fairly well for the fiddle rail.
|hanging the fiddle rails
|pretty ingenuous, eh? LOL...
|I used a large lag bolt on the under side of the curved pieces to hold them while varnishing them and to stand them to dry.
|Here is a sneak peek of what they will look like against the new counter... the white makes the wood pop, don't you think?
|Because I needed counter space to put all the drawers, etc to dry, I had to clean off my work bench. I had to take a picture of it, because I didn't know when it would be this clean again! LOL...
Till then, be well my friends! And PLEASE! Feel free to add a comment below if you found this at all useful. I would be happy to answer any questions you might have... I am finding that Bloggers live for comments to their blogs! LOL...